Startups and upstarts: BaselWorld 2013

Increasingly knowledgeable prospects are straying from the mainstream to seek out something really particular person, which is sweet news for niche watchmakers, says Alex Doak. Our useful guide will provide help to find the choose of the misfits on BaselWorld’s reshuffled floorplan

Arnold & Son Time Pyramid
The biggest watch news of 2012 that you just most likely never heard about was Citizen’s whole acquisition of Prothor Holdings – a Swiss group that features excessive-end motion maker La Joux-Perret, decrease-profile component maker Prototec SA and the Arnold & Son model, which has been separate from British Masters stablemate Graham since 2010.

While many carped on about Citizen’s newfound potential to make affordable Swiss ébauches with proprietary Japanese steadiness springs (a genuine different to ETA), purists have been happy that perennial wallflower Arnold was safe from harm. And the flourish of creativity that adopted has affirmed this renewed confidence.

This 12 months’s Time Pyramid, with its skeletonised, pyramid-shaped movement seemingly floating between two sapphire crystals, is impressed by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold more than 200 years in the past.
RRP: £34,500

Nomos Glashütte
Orion 38 Grau

Can Nomos Glashütte ever put a foot mistaken? While everyone’s favourite quiet man of watchmaking might be accused of sticking too rigidly to its refined breed of Bauhaus, the method is so perfect and the brand’s irreverent Germanic character so refreshingly un-Swiss that we are going to all the time forgive its lack of experimentation.

Especially when you hear a sales pitch as immediately likeable as that of 2013’s Orion 38 Grau, which could nicely be ‘the’ watch to wear with a suit: “Gray like the skies over Glashütte, or grey like financial bookkeeping?” says the release. “Colourless, sad, unprepossessing? Nonsense! As Bauhaus artist Johannes Itten once stated, gray is ‘easily excitable into magnificent tones’.” We agree.
RRP: £1,530

Nomos Glashutte

Nomos Glashutte

Harry Winston
Histoire de Tourbillon

Our obsession with the tourbillon may have abated with the latest return to easy, retro styling, however the very top end of the market remains to be looking to spend huge bucks on ornately engineered funding pieces.

At watchmaker Harry Winston, part of the Swatch Group, the ongoing collaboration with Greubel Forsey’s mercenary arm Complitime has given us Histoire de Tourbillon, a collection of thoughts-boggling exercises in mechanical gymnastics.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston

MeisterSinger Singular
Cult model MeisterSinger’s USP is sort of irritatingly easy: a single hour hand, with some extent that’s positive enough to learn off the minutes between the hour indices. The clever use of the musical fermata or ‘pause’ image as its emblem displays MeisterSinger’s guiding philosophy of a extra relaxed perception of time.

Which isn’t to say things don’t get racy, as borne out by the new Singular chronograph in anthracite (following Nomos’s gray development, we be aware) and sporty red accents.

Later this yr, we’ll be seeing MeisterSinger’s Paleograph fitted with its very first in-home motion, plus a really special collaboration with Westminster Abbey to mark the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.
RRP: £2,850



Big Bang Ferrari Crimson Magic Carbon

For all of Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver’s shameless (but arguably justified) self-promotion and his watch brand’s innumerable advertising ploys and publicity stunts, you can not deny that Hublot makes very first rate watches indeed. The sources and talent inherited from BNB Concept’s dissolution in 2009 seeded its rapid rise to producer status, and now it even makes its personal circumstances as well as actions.

One year on from the primary Ferrari watches, encased in a scratchproof 18ct gold-ceramic compound – or “magic gold”, as Biver so charmingly dubbed it – the new Large Bang Ferrari Red Magic Carbon boasts a carbon-fibre case that’s also solely conceived and manufactured in-home. A brand new “multi-layer principle” includes stacking up to 12 sheets of carbon fibre and forging them in polymerisation ovens.

The result? No bubbles, and subsequently excellent homogeneity as well as vast mechanical power.
RRP: £22,100



MB&F Megawind
Lots of the most remarkable issues at BaselWorld are to be discovered not on a multi-storey, multimillion-euro stand in Hall 1, however crammed into a makeshift marquee next to the automobile park – called, rather ambitiously, The Palace. Here, the biggest brand is arguably Max Büsser’s science-fiction collective, MB&F, whose new launch is the Megawind.

More than just a variation of HM3, MB&F’s best-selling line, it's actually a totally new technology of HM3, which reworks its bug-eyed time show and encompasses a giant version of Max’s Manga-impressed battleaxe rotor.

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, co-creator of MB&F’s MoonMachine, offered both the initial thought for the big rotor and the identify Megawind, while Agenhor’s Jean-Marc Wiederrecht was entrusted with turning the drawings of designer Eric Giroud into horological actuality.
RRP: E79,000 plus tax

Luminox Atacama Field
The gasoline tubes on Luminox dials glow 100 times brighter than most Superluminova-equipped timepieces, which means a tough Swiss-made Luminox watch is the final word evening imaginative and prescient package for athletes, outdoorsmen and army men. Indeed, it is the watch of choice for a number of elite forces, including the US Navy SEALs and F-117 Nighthawk Stealth jet pilots, for whom the brand new black-on-black PVD-coated Atacama could have been designed. Named after the notoriously dry Chilean Atacama area, the Atacama Subject series options 45mm cases and durable 26mm leather-based straps.
RRP: £460



Premium GA 1000FC

More than 200 handmade prototypes have been examined to destruction by Casio till finally, three many years ago, the first “unbreakable” G-Shock watches hit the streets of Japan and began to establish the sub-brand as a true cult.
The latest within the Premium collection is the GA 1000FC, which encompasses the seven G-Shock components – toughness, and resistance to electric shock, gravity, low temperature, vibration, water and shock.
It has been developed with RAF pilots to include essentially the most useful function for the cockpit: a bearing memory compass. Aviators set their target course and, if the watch goes off observe, the LCD display notifies the user.
RRP: £300

G Shock

G Shock

Victorinox Original
It is nonetheless shocking that Victorinox took nearly a century to deviate from cutlery and military-challenge multi-instruments and try its hand at Switzerland’s more conventional trade, however since 1989, the family-run firm has wasted no time in becoming a world-leading watchmaker. The Unique was the very first mannequin, launched in the US in 1989, after which sales increased 20% 12 months on year and Victorinox turned America’s greatest-promoting Swiss watch brand.

Still military-inspired, monochrome in tone and effortlessly straightforward to read, Authentic is being modernised and “urbanised” in 2013 with a new modular leather strap and cuff, its tan colour scheme harking back to the unique Swiss Army officer’s knife of 1891.
RRP: £395



Gc B1 Telemeter
Since Paul Marciano, founding father of the Guess attire brand, started luxurious watch offshoot Gc in 1997, the watch brand has earned the lofty ‘Swiss-made’ appellation and develop into a rock-stable entry-level model for budding watch collectors.

The Telemeter, a brand new execution of Gc’s B1 series in rose-gold PVD coating, achieves a distinguished, classic model with a restraint and composure of which many Swiss grande dames would be proud. The interlocking subdials, Cuban colour scheme and engraved telemeter calibrations all lend a definite ‘gentleman explorer’ feel. The fashion is rounded off by a croco-embossed leather-based strap, which would co-ordinate properly with the straps on Phileas Fogg’s trunk.
RRP: £465



Perrelet Turbine
For the first time since its launch in 2009, Perrelet’s signature Turbine assortment – a spread that makes a kaleidoscopic function of Abraham-Louis Perrelet’s self-winding rotor invention, a key function of the brand that was invented in 1770 – incorporates a chronograph operate with spectacular coherence.

The chronograph measurements are offered by a central seconds chronograph hand and an progressive 60-minute counter, whose two juxtaposed sapphire crystal parts do not detract from the radial dial pattern. It is available in five variants and our favourite must be this slick, titanium-on-titanium quantity with DLC case coating.



In the pink: Argyle Pink Diamonds

The Argyle pink diamond is likely one of the most sought-after in the world. Retail Jeweller learns the magic and thriller behind the stone

There are two stories the Aboriginal people tell about the Dreamtime origins of the Barramundi Hole and its pink diamonds, where the Argyle Diamond mine is found. The Miriuwung folks say that there was a barramundi residing within the river at Tharram (Bandicoot Bar). In the future a crane, fishing for meals, spies the barramundi and tries to catch it, however fails due to the pace with which the fish swims away. The barramundi swims up the Dunham River and on to Glen Hill, the place a few of her scales get scraped off as she passes by. These scales can apparently still be seen there at the moment.

It is here that the barramundi is spotted by some women, who try to catch her utilizing nets manufactured from rolled spinifex grass, a conventional Miriuwung fishing method. The barramundi evades the online by leaping over it and escapes between the two hills of the Barramundi Hole and heads down to the Bow River, where she involves relaxation as a white rock.

The different story, advised by the Gidja individuals, differs slightly. The barramundi continues to be chased by a bunch of old women with spinifex grass web, however this time as she jumps over the ladies to get out of the cave she has been corralled into, she sheds her scales, leaving them behind in the shallows. The scales grow to be the diamonds of all colors which might be discovered there as we speak.

The fact is somewhat extra concise. Pink diamonds are thought to have been formed three billion years in the past, about 150km below the earth’s surface. The explanation for his or her pink colour is that the strain “has created a slight twist within the crystal, inflicting gentle to refract on the far end of the color spectrum”, explains Josephine Johnson, manager of Argyle Pink Diamonds.

The website for the Argyle mine, which is owned by the Rio Tinto Group, happened thanks to Maureen Muggeridge, who got here to Western Australia in a joint venture with Tanganyika Holdings known as Ashton Joint Enterprise. The mission was to analyze whether or not there have been diamonds within the area after a mineral that indicates their presence was found in 1976. In 1979, Muggeridge found diamond samples within the floodplain of a small creek that flowed in Lake Argyle. She traced the supply of the diamonds to Smoke Creek’s headwaters and the Argyle pipe was found on October 2, 1979.

However, nobody fairly knows why this area is so comparatively wealthy in pinks. “The Argyle diamond mine is a fluke of nature. Nobody actually knows why this stunning a part of Australia is blessed with just about the world’s total supply of uncommon pink diamonds,” says Johnson.

Diminishing supply
Argyle at the moment supplies 90% of the world’s provide, but that isn't going to final for much longer. Because of the shortage of the diamonds – to put this in perspective, a 12 months’s worth of manufacturing of stones over half a carat would slot in the palm of your hand – Argyle estimates that it has solely a decade left of mine life.

This is why the Out of the Vault exhibition that Argyle curated at an invitation-solely occasion at Kensington Palace in October was such a particular event. It was a uncommon opportunity to see these pinks in pieces created by a number of the world’s most famous jewelry maisons.

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“Out of the Vault was impressed by the 12 months of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and her well-known Williamson pink diamond brooch. The jewelry homes invited to participate proceed the custom of making necessary jewels with pink diamonds,” explains Johnson. “Indeed, most of the pink diamonds on the earth today would have passed by means of or been in the fingers of the jewellers exhibiting.”

The end result was a set of diverse designs, from floral bangles by Moussaieff to a suite of koalas from Graff.

“Each Argyle pink diamond is unique. Each has its personal color, shape and dimension,” says Johnson. “The jewellery designers take their inspiration from these distinctive gems as a starting point. On this sense, the creativeness and design is impressed by the gem and, as such, we saw a spread of breathtaking designs from the floral by means of to the classical and on to the fashionable.”

Sought-after stone
Most of the items that were on display at the exhibition have already been sold, which, when you consider that the typical value point was $500,000 (£313,453), shows the worth people still ascribe to pink diamonds.

The other aspect that makes pinks so invaluable is their issue to work with. “All diamonds are created under stress, however none extra so than the Argyle pink diamond,” explains Johnson. “This makes them so arduous that we needed to develop our own know-how in order to polish them.”

Cutters solely study to cut pinks after a long apprenticeship and a few years of slicing white, yellow and different fancy colored diamonds. “Our polishers have been working on Argyle pink diamonds for over 20 years every and so they mix technology, experience, intuition and artwork within the profitable completion of every uncommon diamond.”

They could have 20 years’ expertise, but in just half that time, there will probably be no more Argyle pinks to polish, one thing that provides to the attract of these uncommon stones. And that makes them, like the barramundi in the Dreamtime legends, something of elusive magnificence.

Lonmin reveals Design Innovation Awards winners

Earrings by 2012 DIA winner Mandy Morris. The 2013 designs will not be revealed until IJL in September.

The 2013 Lonmin Design Innovation Awards (DIA) winners have been introduced, with six rising and established jewellers set to see their designs realised in platinum.

In the Rising Designers class, centered on designers with less than five years’ business experience, the three winners had been named as Siobhan Maher of Domino Jewellery, Sarah Heulwen Lewis of Weston Beamor and Craig and Rebecca Struthers of Struthers London.

The winners in the Established Designers class had been Luke Rose of Luke Rose Jewellery, Rachel Galley of Rachel Galley and Kasun Ekanayake of Kasun London. Each designer has been in enterprise for five years or more.

The six winners each created sketches of jewelry primarily based on the theme of 'New Frontiers'. The competition was judges with input from jewelry developments evaluation service Adorn Perception, which helped to set the theme for this 12 months's competition.

Their items will stay largely below wraps until IJL in September where they will be revealed to the public.

The New Frontiers theme is alleged to be impressed by movements akin to Modernism, Bauhaus and Artwork Deco. The designers' transient was to create an original platinum jewelry design which had a watch on the future whilst being related to up to date life.

A advertising and marketing and PR campaign can also be in production to assist promote the designers and their profitable designs. All six winners will receive a monetary contribution in the direction of the production and prices of their pieces.

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Online-only 5-minute Q&A: Chloe Moss, founder of ChloBo

Chloe Moss founder of jewelry brand ChloBo displays on 2012 and appears ahead to 2013.

Chloe Moss, founder of ChloBo

Chloe Moss, founding father of ChloBo

How would you describe ChloBo ?

ChloBo merchandise are predominantly sterling silver, with some objects together with semi precious stones to add colour and style. The designs are mainly Boho and embody many quirky charms and can be worn in a very relaxed, casual way. ChloBo is stackable, with customers constructing their very own personal looks to mirror their character and moods. Customers change their look by including colour pieces to reflect day/ evening and the seasons. Certain signature items provide clients the prospect to make a real assertion, often worn with simply totally silver pieces, making a extra formal and impressive look.

ChloBo as an organization adopts a culture of “Severe however Fun”. All the workforce strive exhausting to achieve our objectives but we’ve enjoyable along the way!

What has 2012 been about for the model and has it been profitable ?

Our important focus for 2012 has been to continue to elevate the ChloBo model, by continuing our aggressive retailer recruitment programme, improved merchandising and commencing trade advertising activity. Our success been measured by, recruiting 40 new retailers during the yr, making the Skilled Jeweller Hot one hundred “Nexgem” group and being shortlisted for Retail Jeweller Jewellery Brand of The 12 months.

What has been the largest problem of 2012 and how have you ever overcome it?

Our biggest challenge has been a mission to enhance our Provide Chain with the intention to accommodate our growth and keep our excellent service ranges to our retailers. We have now broadened our provider base and improved our element specification course of to make sure suppliers provide exactly what we require and to our high quality standards.

What plans do you could have for ChloBo in 2013 ?

In 2013 we intend to step up our retailer recruitment programme and commence a series of regional advertising campaigns. It will contain regional promoting, local retailer support occasions and promotions. We additionally intend to introduce the first phase of a Retailer Help Web site.

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OWC named Treasure Designer of the Year 2013

Designer Myriam Soseilos presented by with the Treasure Designer of the Year award by Victoria Bain.

Cypriot jewelry brand OWC has been named the 2013 winner of Treasure Designer of the Year.

Myriam Soseilos is the artist and designer behind OWC which describes itself as “intimately crafted artistry”. She launched the brand last yr with her model of jewellery already stated to have an unprecedented amount of consideration.

The award was presented on the Treasure launch celebration during Jewelry Week last week. The prize was sponsored by Presman Mastermelt and was offered by The Telegraph Magazine shopping and jewellery editor Victoria Bain.

The aesthetic of the OWC brand is symmetrical jewellery with a ardour for geometry. Inspired by trendy architecture every bit is simple and chic.

The title “OWC” represents the primary three letters of the designer’s surname in Greek while its pronunciation is said to be similar to the English phrase ‘sauce’.

On being offered with the accolade Soseilos mentioned, “Once I started designing the Transformers Assortment, I by no means dreamed that it might win an award. My work is the product of my ardour for aesthetics, distinctiveness and perfection. It’s great to see individuals appreciating this.”

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Andrew Geoghegan unveils 50% tougher platinum

Andrew Geoghegan's Genus ring will be made using the 50% tougher cast platinum alloy he has developed.

Andrew Geoghegan’s Genus ring might be made utilizing the 50% harder cast platinum alloy he has developed.

Andrew Geoghegan has as we speak introduced the development of a brand new platinum alloy stated to be 50% more arduous-carrying than common solid platinum used within the UK.

Geoghegan has spent a number of month researching, trialling and testing the steel, developing a new hardening course of. He will now use the platinum alloy, which maintains its 950 purity, for all of his cast rings. He says it presents elevated sturdiness, longevity and high quality.

He worked on the development of the alloy after noticing rare however recurring issues with the tensile strength in platinum cast pieces. His choice to use a tougher platinum alloy follows months of analysis and in depth testing at the Assay Office. Geoghegan has developed a hardening method that he says provides “consistently excellent results”.

He stated of the platinum alloy: “It has at all times been thought that platinum is tremendous robust in all jewellery applications. However in sure forms of jewellery the shortage of tensile power of standard forged metal can be problematic.

“We began to see a handful of returns in a single design however solely in platinum. This started an extended means of looking and testing until we have been joyful we had something quite unbelievable. We’re the one company in the UK utilizing this platinum for production and our exhaustive trials with hardening the steel has improved the alloy even further.”

Geoghegan currently works with 18ct gold and platinum to create a range of bridal, wedding and cocktail rings utilizing diamonds and coloured gem stones.

In 2012 Geoghegan created a hoop using suggestions and opinion from a ballot run on Fb, stated to be the “world’s first Facebook ring”.

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